I am a huge fan of Indian Fabrics, textile and designs. I never spare any opportunity to Shopian the cities of Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Kutch.The Handworked Fabrics, the patterns , the embroidery is simply magic. The luxury is a totally on a different level when you look at Indian art and culture. From the Phulkari work in Punjab to the mirror embroidery on bright and colourful embroidery in Rajasthan to the tie and die medley of colours in Gujarat India has so much to offer.The diversity in design and fabric is exquisite.Its no surprise that some of the worlds mode famous fashion designers pick up Indian Fabrics as their medium for work.You would be surprised to know about the cost of export of Indian materials.Its no joke how all this beautiful embroidery work gets on the runways in Paris.
For those of you who are not from India it might come off as a surprise but Phulkari plays a very important role in a girl’s life.Tradition has it that …Birth of a girl marks the beginning of the child’s grandmother of the task in creating the future bride’s trousseau, which is worn by the bride when she walks around the sacred fire during her wedding ceremony. When a woman gives birth to a boy she is given a Phulkari which is worn by her when she goes out for the first time after delivery, and during any religious festivals. Likewise when a lady dies her body is covered with Phulkari.
Phulkari was never fabricated for sale; it was embroidered by a family for its own use, for every important moment in their local life like wedding, birth, and religious functions, therefore the birth of this handicraft was mere domestic necessity and not any artistic motive. Finishing a “Phulkari” signifies an important step for a girl to become a woman, as is mentioned even in the holy book for the Sikhs ““Only then will you be considered an accomplished lady when you will you – self, embroider your own blouse.” I got a chance to explore the best collection of phulkari at a trade fair at Delhi Haat and I have been a huge fan ever since.
Khadi is a versatile fabric. It has the unique property of keeping the wearer warm in winter as well as cool in summer season. This fabric has coarse texture and gets easily crumpled, therefore in order to keep it firm and stiff, starch is to be added. This fabric on washing is more enhanced thus the more you wash it, better the look. During spinning of Khadi the threads are interwoven in such a manner that it provides passage of air circulation in the fabric. Apart from this unique property, it also provides warmth in winter season which is quite surprising factor. Khadi cotton is required to be starched so that it does not get easily crumpled. It comes in many colours and is not harmful to the skin as synthetic fabrics. This cotton is very soothing in summer season as ample amount of air ventilation is there, it has the capacity to absorb moisture therefore it easily soaks the sweat and keeps the wearer cool and dry.
Previously Khadi was dyed in earthy colour tones and was used to make traditional garments but now designers are experimenting by dyeing Khadi with striking colours like lime-green, violet, baby pink, turquoise blue, etc. Stylish garments like mini skirts, halter neck tops, racer tops, tunics, etc are made from Khadi. Khadi is hand woven and hand spun fabric which takes time to be made. It is mainly manufactured in rural areas of India. In previous times it was considered as the fabric for the poor rural workers & farmers. But wearing Khadi is no more for the poor, many high profile personalities and economically sound people prefer to wear it. It is considered as one of the most beautiful Indian fabric. The Khadi wearer gets a royal and distinguishable look due to its fall and style. It symbolises luxury and uniqueness.
Odisha produces some of the finest Hand-woven like a) Ikat, the delicately feathered yarn tie & Dye woven in wide array of colours and textures suitable for both apparels as well as home furnishings;
b) Natural dyed Kotpad fabrics, native to the tribal of Kotpad famous for its rustic charm; c) Hand spun wild silk, Tassar Silk in a wide range of counts and textures suitable for upholstery, curtains and home accessories:
and d) Hand-woven brocades, Bomkai in Silk and Cotton, woven by ancient Jala technique, famous for intricate patterns are all focused by Boyanika and reach the connoisseurs of Handloom through its State-of the-Art forty show rooms inside and outside the State.
Odisha Tie & Dye (commonly known as Ikat) and Kotpad vegetable dyed fabrics are now registered as Geographical Indications for Boyanika’s initiative as Nodal Agency in the State. A pioneer in the marketing of Handloom products of the State, not only procure and market fabrics, but also involved in supply of raw materials to the
weavers through “Yarn Bank”, promoting brand building, safeguarding the interest of Orissa handloom through GI registration, organizing Handloom fairs ranging
from District-Level Exhibitions to national Expos and International Trade fairs to explore niche market. Boyanika will go on with the expanded view for exploring every new horizon of marketing during coming years.
Silk is not just the name for luxury and lustre its a rich fabric, it is a tradition with a future.
Tanchoi Silk: Weaving technique which is a blend of silk from the two countries, India and China.
Garad Silk: Garad originates in West Bengal, and is distinguished by its red border and small paisley motifs. Silk fabric used to weave Garad sarees is produced by the silk yarns woven close together which imparts the fine texture.
Jamawar: Jamawar Silk is an adulterated form of Pashmina silk which contains a blend of cotton and wool. This is usually used in weaving shawls for the winters.
Matka Silk: A rough handloom silk fabric made from the waste Mulberry Silk without removing its gum (sericin) part, largely produced in Karnataka and Kashmir.
Banarasi/Benarasi Silk: A fine variant of silk evolving from the lands of Beneras or Varanasi, known for gold and silver work of brocade and zari on the fabric.
Mulberry Silk: Purest form of silk extracted from Silkworms, usually produced in yellow, white, or greenish yellow color.
Murshidabad Silk: Silk produced at the ‘Silk Mecca’ of East India.
Bangalore Silk: Known for its simplicity and purity of Silk, Bangalore silk is produced in the silk farms of Bangalore.
Angora Silk: Known for tender texture, the Angora silk yarn is made up from the fur of meek ‘Angora’ rabbit.
Silk Embroidery: Intricate patterns embroidered in silk on various fabrics.
Pochampally/Pochampalli Silk: Type of silk originating from the town of Boodhan Pochampally, located in Nalgonda district of Andhra Pradesh, popularly known as the silk city of India.
Mysore Silk Crepe: Woven from hard spun silk yarn and comes from the silk city of Mysore in
Sournachuri Silk: Originating from West Bengal, Sournachuri Silk has gold thread incorporated in the weave of silk, hence giving a rich shine to the fabric. It is also known as the ‘illustrious’ sister of the Baluchari Silk saree.
Raw Silk: Raw Silk is the most natural form of delicate fibre of silk with no twist and is unprocessed form of silk that can be easily woven into different fabrics.
Kosa Silk: Comes from Chattisgarh, and is known for its soft texture and dull-brownish look, hence available in shades of gold pale, dark honey, cream, etc. Kosa is one kind of
Tussar Silk: Also known as Wild Silk, Tussar radiates gold sheen in its fabric and is exclusively produced in India.
Muga Silk: Produced only in Assam, Muga silk yarns are totally yellow in color and is considered as strongest natural fibre
Eri Silk: Also known as Errandi and Endi in most parts of India, Eri Silk is the purest forms of silk from the east, with a dull yellow, gold like sheen.
Dharamavaram Silk: Known for gold-plated borders, Dharamavaram silk orginates from Andhra Pradesh, and is also known as ‘Silk for the Bride.’
Pat/Paat Silk: Produced in Eastern India, Pat silk is known for its distinctive brightness, high quality and durable nature. It comes in brilliant white or off-white shades.
Cot Silk: A well-blended combination of cotton and silk, Cot silk is a cheaper-priced silk.
Kanchipuram: Silk from the village called Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, India, this one is known for its durability and shine. The rich quality combined with an amazing finish make them last longer.
Bhagalpuri Silk: Known as the ‘Queen of all fabrics’, Bhagalpuri Silk originates from West Bengal and is very well known for its unique and striking resilience and superior quality.
Uppada Silk: Also known as Uppada Pattu (Silk in Telugu), Uppada silk comes from Andhra Pradesh. Usually woven in cotton warp, this one is known majorly by the length and breadth count of threads.
Art Silk: Short form for artificial silk, art silk is manufactured by a synthetic fiber like Rayon that very much resembles the silk fiber; however, costs a lot less on the front of manufacture and production.
It is almost impossible to do justice to Indian Fabrics and patterns in one post so I would be doing more posts on the subject.Stay tuned for a lot more awesomeness coming your way. Hope you enjoyed reading, do share your thoughts and suggestions in comments down below.